Difference between revisions of "Denali National Park and Preserve" - New World Encyclopedia
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== Overview == | == Overview == | ||
| − | The word "Denali" means "the | + | The word "Denali" means "the great one" in the native [[Athabaskan]] language and refers to the Mount McKinley. The mountain was named after president [[William McKinley]] of [[Ohio]] in 1897 by local prospector [[William A. Dickey]], although McKinley had no connection with the region. |
| − | Charles Sheldon, a naturalist, hunter, and conservationist, first traveled | + | [[Charles Sheldon]], a naturalist, hunter, and conservationist, first traveled to the region in 1906 and took an interest in the [[Dall sheep]] native to the region. He became concerned that human encroachment would threaten the natural habitat and conceived a plan to set up the area as a national park. After his 1907-1908 visit, he petitioned the state of [[Alaska]] and [[United States Congress|Congress]] to create a preserve for sheep. <ref> His account of the visit was published posthumously as ''The Wilderness of Denali'', ISBN 1-56833-152-5. </ref> |
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| + | Due largely to Sheldon's efforts, the park was established as '''Mount McKinley National Park''' on February 26, 1917 as a wildlife refuge. Ironically, only a portion of Mount McKinley (not even including the summit) was within the original park boundary. The park was designated an [[biosphere reserve|international biosphere reserve]] in 1976. On December 1, 1978, a proclamation by President [[Jimmy Carter]] was signed creating '''Denali National Monument''', bringing the entirety of the mountain within the protection of the National Park System. | ||
[[Image:DenaliNationalPark.JPG|left|thumb|250px|Denali National Park]] | [[Image:DenaliNationalPark.JPG|left|thumb|250px|Denali National Park]] | ||
| − | Mount McKinley National Park, whose name had been subject to local criticism from the onset, and Denali National Monument were incorporated and established into '''Denali National Park and Preserve''' by the [[Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act]], December 2, 1980. At | + | Mount McKinley National Park, whose name had been subject to local criticism from the onset, and Denali National Monument were incorporated and established into '''Denali National Park and Preserve''' by the [[Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act]], December 2, 1980. At that time the Alaska Board of Geographic Names changed the name of the mountain back to "Denali," even though the U.S. Board of Geographic Names maintains "McKinley." Alaskans tend to use "Denali" and rely on context to distinguish between the park and the mountain. The size of the park is over 6 million acres (25,000 km²), of which 4,724,735.16 acres (19,120 km²) are federally owned. The national preserve is 1,334,200 acres (543 km²), of which 1,304,132 acres (5,278 km²) are federally owned. On December 2, 1980, [[Denali Wilderness]], a 2,146,580-acre (8,687-km²) area within the park was established. |
| − | Denali habitat is a mix of forest at the lowest elevations, including deciduous [[taiga]]. The preserve is also home to tundra at middle elevations, and | + | Denali habitat is a mix of [[forest]] at the lowest elevations, including deciduous [[taiga]]. The preserve is also home to [[tundra]] at middle elevations, and [[glacier]]s, [[rock]] and snow at the highest elevations. Annually the park hosts more than 400,000 visitors who enjoy wildlife viewing, [[mountaineering]], and [[backpacking (wilderness)|backpacking]]. Wintertime recreation includes [[dog-sled]]ding, [[cross-country skiing]], and [[snowmobiling]] where allowed. |
| − | ==Wildlife== | + | == Geography == |
| − | [[Image:Grizzly Denali edit.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Grizzly bear in Denali National Park]]Denali is | + | === Wildlife === |
| + | [[Image:Grizzly Denali edit.jpg|thumb|right|300px|Grizzly bear in Denali National Park]] | ||
| + | [[Image:Caribou in Denali.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Caribou in Denali National Park, 1999]] | ||
| + | Denali is famous for its diversity of wildlife. It is home to a variety of Alaskan [[bird]]s and 39 species of [[mammal]]s, including a healthy population of [[grizzly bear]]s and [[American black bear|black bear]]s. Herds of [[caribou]] roam throughout the park. [[Dall sheep]] are often seen on mountainsides, and [[moose]] feed on the aquatic plants of the many small lakes and swamps. Despite human impact on the area, Denali accommodates [[gray wolf]] dens, both historic and active. Smaller animals, such as [[hoary marmot]]s, [[arctic ground squirrel]]s, [[beaver]]s, [[pika]]s, and [[snowshoe hare]]s are seen in abundance. [[Fox]]es, [[marten]]s, [[lynx]], and [[wolverine]]s also inhabit the park, but are more rarely seen due to their elusive natures. During the winter months, grizzlies go into a deep sleep and ground squirrels and marmots hibernate. However, red squirrels and beavers hole up and subsist on their food supply, while [[weasel]]s and snowshoe hare turn white and do their best to survive above ground through the winter. | ||
| − | The park is home to 167 species of birds. Many migratory species, which is approximately 80% of the park’s bird population, travel great distances to return to the park in spring to nest and stay through the summer. Birdwatchers may find [[wheatear]]s, which spend their winters in Africa, [[waxwing]]s, [[arctic warbler]]s, and [[pine grosbeak]]s, as well as [[Ptarmigan]] and the majestic [[tundra swan]]. Predatory birds include a variety of | + | The park is home to 167 species of birds. Many migratory species, which is approximately 80% of the park’s bird population, travel great distances to return to the park in spring to nest and stay through the summer. Birdwatchers may find [[wheatear]]s, which spend their winters in Africa, [[waxwing]]s, [[arctic warbler]]s, and [[pine grosbeak]]s, as well as [[Ptarmigan]] and the majestic [[tundra swan]]. Predatory birds include a variety of [[hawk]]s, [[owl]]s, and the [[gyrfalcon]], as well as the abundant but striking [[golden eagle]]. |
| − | Ten species of fish, including [[trout]], [[salmon]], and [[arctic grayling]] share the waters of the park. Because many of the rivers and lakes of Denali are fed by | + | Ten species of [[fish]], including [[trout]], [[salmon]], and [[arctic grayling]] share the waters of the park. Because many of the rivers and lakes of Denali are fed by [[glacier]]s, glacial silt and cold temperatures slow the [[metabolism]] of the fish, preventing them from reaching normal sizes. |
There are no reptiles and only a single amphibious species, the [[wood frog]], that lives among the lakes of the park. | There are no reptiles and only a single amphibious species, the [[wood frog]], that lives among the lakes of the park. | ||
| − | Denali Park Rangers maintain a constant effort to "keep the wildlife wild" by limiting the interaction between humans and park animals. Feeding animals is strictly forbidden, as it may cause adverse affects on their feeding habits. Visitors are encouraged to view animals from safe distances. Despite the large concentration of | + | Denali Park Rangers maintain a constant effort to "keep the wildlife wild" by limiting the interaction between humans and park animals. Feeding animals is strictly forbidden, as it may cause adverse affects on their feeding habits. Visitors are encouraged to view animals from safe distances. Despite the large concentration of [[bear]]s in the park, efforts by rangers to educate backpackers and visitors about preventative measures and bear-resistant food storage containers (BRFCs) have greatly reduced the number of dangerous encounters. Certain areas of the park are often closed due to uncommon wildlife activity, such as denning areas of wolves and bears or recent kill sites. Through the collective care of park staff and visitors, Denali has become a premier destination for wildlife viewing. |
| − | ==Flora== | + | === Flora === |
| − | The [[Alaska Range]], a 400-mile (650-km) mountainous expanse running through the entire park, provides interesting | + | The [[Alaska Range]], a 400-mile (650-km) mountainous expanse running through the entire park, provides interesting [[ecosystem]]s in Denali. Because the [[fall line]] lies as low as 2,500 feet, wooded areas are rare inside the park, except in the flatter western sections surrounding [[Wonder Lake, Alaska|Wonder Lake]], and lowlands of the park where flowing waters melt the frozen ground. Black and white [[spruce]], quaking [[aspen]], paper [[birch]], [[balsam poplar]], and [[willow]]s make up the majority of these treed areas. Because of mineral content, ground temperature, and a general lack of sufficient soil, areas surrounding the bases of mountains are not suitable for proper tree growth, and most trees and shrubs do not reach full size. |
| − | [[Tundra]] is the predominate ground cover of the park. Layers of topsoil collect on rotten, fragmented rock moved by thousands of years of glacial activity. [[Moss]]es, [[fern]]s, grasses, and [[fungi]] quickly fill the topsoil, and in areas of "[[wet tundra]]," [[tussock grass|tussocks]] form and may collect algae. Only those plants with short growing seasons that have adapted to very cold temperatures can survive here. Wild [[blueberries]] and [[Canada Buffaloberry|soap berries]] thrive in this landscape, and provide the bears of Denali with the main | + | [[Tundra]] is the predominate ground cover of the park. Layers of topsoil collect on rotten, fragmented rock moved by thousands of years of glacial activity. [[Moss]]es, [[fern]]s, grasses, and [[fungi]] quickly fill the topsoil, and in areas of "[[wet tundra]]," [[tussock grass|tussocks]] form and may collect algae. Only those plants with short growing seasons that have adapted to very cold temperatures can survive here. Wild [[blueberries]] and [[Canada Buffaloberry|soap berries]] thrive in this landscape, and provide the bears of Denali with the main staple of their diets. |
| − | Over 650 species of flowering plants fill the park, and can be viewed in bloom throughout the summer. Images of [[goldenrod]], [[fireweed]], [[lupine]], [[bluebell]], and [[gentian]] filling the valleys of Denali are often used on postcards and in artwork. Dotting the rocky landscape in a lovely summer display is the dwarf rhododendron and Alaska’s state flower, the forget-me-not. | + | Over 650 species of flowering plants fill the park, and can be viewed in bloom throughout the summer. Images of [[goldenrod]], [[fireweed]], [[lupine]], [[bluebell]], and [[gentian]] filling the valleys of Denali are often used on postcards and in artwork. Dotting the rocky landscape in a lovely summer display is the dwarf [[rhododendron]] and Alaska’s state flower, the [[forget-me-not]]. |
| − | ==Climate== | + | === Climate === |
| − | The weather at Denali National Park and Preserve can be very unpredictable. Summer temperatures average from 33 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. In higher elevations | + | The weather at Denali National Park and Preserve can be very unpredictable. Summer temperatures average from 33 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. In higher elevations rain or occasional snow occurs even as early as July or August. Temperatures can change quickly, so a person is advised to wear layers of clothing in order to regulate body temperature. Winters can be extremely cold and temperatures can range from -40 degrees Fahrenheit to the high 20s on warmer days. There is an average annual snowfall of 83 inches. |
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==Park highlights== | ==Park highlights== | ||
| + | [[Image:Wonder Lake, Denali.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Mt McKinley and [[Wonder Lake, Alaska|Wonder Lake]] viewed from Denali NP access road]] | ||
* '''Denali Visitor Center''' (Mile 1.5). A new visitor center, located near the railroad depot, opened in May 2005. The visitor center provides a movie and is the starting point for many interpretative, ranger-led trail walks. For shuttle bus tickets and campground reservations, visit the '''Wilderness Access Center''' (Mile 0.6). | * '''Denali Visitor Center''' (Mile 1.5). A new visitor center, located near the railroad depot, opened in May 2005. The visitor center provides a movie and is the starting point for many interpretative, ranger-led trail walks. For shuttle bus tickets and campground reservations, visit the '''Wilderness Access Center''' (Mile 0.6). | ||
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:* '''Igloo Creek Campground'''. This campground is temporarily close to protect local wolf packs. It ''might'' reopen in 2008. | :* '''Igloo Creek Campground'''. This campground is temporarily close to protect local wolf packs. It ''might'' reopen in 2008. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==Vehicle access== | ||
| + | |||
| + | The park is serviced by a 91-mile road from the Parks Highway to the mining camp of [[Kantishna]]. Only a small fraction of the road is paved because permafrost and the freeze-thaw cycle create an enormous cost for maintaining the road. Private vehicles are only allowed on the road in early spring and late fall. During the summer months, visitors must access the interior of the park through shuttle buses operated by [[concession (contract)|concession]]. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Several fully narrated tours of the park are available, the most popular of which is the Tundra Wilderness Tour. The tours travel from the initial [[boreal forest]]s through [[tundra]] to the Toklat River or Kantishna. A clear view of the mountain is only possible about 20% of the time during the summer, although it is visible more often during the winter. Several portions of the road run alongside sheer [[cliffs]] that drop hundreds of feet at the edges, and the extreme conditions prevent construction of guardrails. As a result of the danger involved, and because most of the gravel road is only one lane wide, drivers are trained extensively in procedures for navigating the sharp mountain curves, and yielding the [[Traffic#Right of Way ("who goes first")|right-of-way]] to opposing buses and park vehicles. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Tours are more expensive than the shuttles, but recommended for groups interested in learning as much about the culture and history of the area as possible. The shuttle buses are a better option for budget travelers, people wishing to day-hike or backpack, and groups interested in seeing as much of the park as possible (as shuttles all travel as far, or in many cases farther, than the tours). | ||
==Mount McKinley== | ==Mount McKinley== | ||
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{{wide image|Denali National Park Polychrome Mountains Panorama 27193px.jpg|1800px|Panoramic view of the Polychrome Mountains}} | {{wide image|Denali National Park Polychrome Mountains Panorama 27193px.jpg|1800px|Panoramic view of the Polychrome Mountains}} | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Notes == | ||
| + | <References/> | ||
== Sources and Further Reading == | == Sources and Further Reading == | ||
Revision as of 18:53, 21 June 2007
| Denali National Park and Preserve | |
|---|---|
| IUCN Category II (National Park) | |
  | |
| Location: | Alaska, USA |
| Nearest city: | Healy, AK |
| Area: | 6,075,107 acres (24,585 km²) |
| Established: | February 26, 1917 |
| Visitation: | 1,178,745 (in 2005) |
| Governing body: | National Park Service |
Denali National Park and Preserve is located in Interior Alaska and contains Mount McKinley (Denali), the tallest mountain in North America. The park and preserve together cover 9,492 mi² (24,585 km²) of pristine wilderness.
EB park and preserve in central Alaska, U.S., established in 1980 from the former Mount McKinley National Park (1917) and Denali National Monument (1978). Denali (“The Great One”) is the ancient Athapascan Indian name for Mount McKinley, the highest mountain in North America at 20,320 feet (6,194 m). Highlights of the park include the large glaciers of the Alaska Range and abundant wildlife. The park's total area is 7,409 square miles (19,189 square km).
Overview
The word "Denali" means "the great one" in the native Athabaskan language and refers to the Mount McKinley. The mountain was named after president William McKinley of Ohio in 1897 by local prospector William A. Dickey, although McKinley had no connection with the region.
Charles Sheldon, a naturalist, hunter, and conservationist, first traveled to the region in 1906 and took an interest in the Dall sheep native to the region. He became concerned that human encroachment would threaten the natural habitat and conceived a plan to set up the area as a national park. After his 1907-1908 visit, he petitioned the state of Alaska and Congress to create a preserve for sheep. [1]
Due largely to Sheldon's efforts, the park was established as Mount McKinley National Park on February 26, 1917 as a wildlife refuge. Ironically, only a portion of Mount McKinley (not even including the summit) was within the original park boundary. The park was designated an international biosphere reserve in 1976. On December 1, 1978, a proclamation by President Jimmy Carter was signed creating Denali National Monument, bringing the entirety of the mountain within the protection of the National Park System.
Mount McKinley National Park, whose name had been subject to local criticism from the onset, and Denali National Monument were incorporated and established into Denali National Park and Preserve by the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act, December 2, 1980. At that time the Alaska Board of Geographic Names changed the name of the mountain back to "Denali," even though the U.S. Board of Geographic Names maintains "McKinley." Alaskans tend to use "Denali" and rely on context to distinguish between the park and the mountain. The size of the park is over 6 million acres (25,000 km²), of which 4,724,735.16 acres (19,120 km²) are federally owned. The national preserve is 1,334,200 acres (543 km²), of which 1,304,132 acres (5,278 km²) are federally owned. On December 2, 1980, Denali Wilderness, a 2,146,580-acre (8,687-km²) area within the park was established.
Denali habitat is a mix of forest at the lowest elevations, including deciduous taiga. The preserve is also home to tundra at middle elevations, and glaciers, rock and snow at the highest elevations. Annually the park hosts more than 400,000 visitors who enjoy wildlife viewing, mountaineering, and backpacking. Wintertime recreation includes dog-sledding, cross-country skiing, and snowmobiling where allowed.
Geography
Wildlife
Denali is famous for its diversity of wildlife. It is home to a variety of Alaskan birds and 39 species of mammals, including a healthy population of grizzly bears and black bears. Herds of caribou roam throughout the park. Dall sheep are often seen on mountainsides, and moose feed on the aquatic plants of the many small lakes and swamps. Despite human impact on the area, Denali accommodates gray wolf dens, both historic and active. Smaller animals, such as hoary marmots, arctic ground squirrels, beavers, pikas, and snowshoe hares are seen in abundance. Foxes, martens, lynx, and wolverines also inhabit the park, but are more rarely seen due to their elusive natures. During the winter months, grizzlies go into a deep sleep and ground squirrels and marmots hibernate. However, red squirrels and beavers hole up and subsist on their food supply, while weasels and snowshoe hare turn white and do their best to survive above ground through the winter.
The park is home to 167 species of birds. Many migratory species, which is approximately 80% of the park’s bird population, travel great distances to return to the park in spring to nest and stay through the summer. Birdwatchers may find wheatears, which spend their winters in Africa, waxwings, arctic warblers, and pine grosbeaks, as well as Ptarmigan and the majestic tundra swan. Predatory birds include a variety of hawks, owls, and the gyrfalcon, as well as the abundant but striking golden eagle.
Ten species of fish, including trout, salmon, and arctic grayling share the waters of the park. Because many of the rivers and lakes of Denali are fed by glaciers, glacial silt and cold temperatures slow the metabolism of the fish, preventing them from reaching normal sizes.
There are no reptiles and only a single amphibious species, the wood frog, that lives among the lakes of the park.
Denali Park Rangers maintain a constant effort to "keep the wildlife wild" by limiting the interaction between humans and park animals. Feeding animals is strictly forbidden, as it may cause adverse affects on their feeding habits. Visitors are encouraged to view animals from safe distances. Despite the large concentration of bears in the park, efforts by rangers to educate backpackers and visitors about preventative measures and bear-resistant food storage containers (BRFCs) have greatly reduced the number of dangerous encounters. Certain areas of the park are often closed due to uncommon wildlife activity, such as denning areas of wolves and bears or recent kill sites. Through the collective care of park staff and visitors, Denali has become a premier destination for wildlife viewing.
Flora
The Alaska Range, a 400-mile (650-km) mountainous expanse running through the entire park, provides interesting ecosystems in Denali. Because the fall line lies as low as 2,500 feet, wooded areas are rare inside the park, except in the flatter western sections surrounding Wonder Lake, and lowlands of the park where flowing waters melt the frozen ground. Black and white spruce, quaking aspen, paper birch, balsam poplar, and willows make up the majority of these treed areas. Because of mineral content, ground temperature, and a general lack of sufficient soil, areas surrounding the bases of mountains are not suitable for proper tree growth, and most trees and shrubs do not reach full size.
Tundra is the predominate ground cover of the park. Layers of topsoil collect on rotten, fragmented rock moved by thousands of years of glacial activity. Mosses, ferns, grasses, and fungi quickly fill the topsoil, and in areas of "wet tundra," tussocks form and may collect algae. Only those plants with short growing seasons that have adapted to very cold temperatures can survive here. Wild blueberries and soap berries thrive in this landscape, and provide the bears of Denali with the main staple of their diets.
Over 650 species of flowering plants fill the park, and can be viewed in bloom throughout the summer. Images of goldenrod, fireweed, lupine, bluebell, and gentian filling the valleys of Denali are often used on postcards and in artwork. Dotting the rocky landscape in a lovely summer display is the dwarf rhododendron and Alaska’s state flower, the forget-me-not.
Climate
The weather at Denali National Park and Preserve can be very unpredictable. Summer temperatures average from 33 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. In higher elevations rain or occasional snow occurs even as early as July or August. Temperatures can change quickly, so a person is advised to wear layers of clothing in order to regulate body temperature. Winters can be extremely cold and temperatures can range from -40 degrees Fahrenheit to the high 20s on warmer days. There is an average annual snowfall of 83 inches.
Park highlights
- Denali Visitor Center (Mile 1.5). A new visitor center, located near the railroad depot, opened in May 2005. The visitor center provides a movie and is the starting point for many interpretative, ranger-led trail walks. For shuttle bus tickets and campground reservations, visit the Wilderness Access Center (Mile 0.6).
- Savage River (Mile 14). Nearly everyone who drives to Denali will stop at Savage River because traffic beyond this point is not permitted for private vehicles. There are several trails on both sides of the river that leave from the parking lot, and the more adventurous can attempt to seek out Dall sheep on the top of Mount Margaret, which rises across the river, across from the parking lot.
- Fish Creek (Mile 63). This is a substitute destination while Eielson Visitor Center is under construction. It is just beyond a point along the road called Stony Dome where, on a clear day, a particularly impressive view of Mt. McKinley is possible. Despite its name, there are very few, perhaps even no, fish in the creek.
- Eielson Visitor Center (Mile 66). Eielson is most easily reached by shuttle bus and provides one of the most dramatic views of the mountain, if you are lucky enough to visit on a day when it isn’t shrouded in clouds. There are several short trails around the visitor center, and displays inside of the visitor center provide info on the natural history of the area. It is currently closed for reconstruction. It will re-open in 2008.
- Wonder Lake (Mile 86). Forever immortalized by the photos of Ansel Adams, Wonder Lake is a beautiful lake at the base of the mountain. Reflection Pond, along the park road on the east side of the lake, is a favorite of photographers when the mountain is out. An established trail to the heavily braided McKinley River is also worthwhile for a glimpse of the McKinley River.
- Sled Dog Demonstrations. The park service keeps sled dogs for use in the winter. During the summer, rangers and dogs work together to demonstrate for visitors this traditional mode of travel in Alaska. These unique 30-minute programs allow visitors to tour the kennels and see Denali’s Alaskan Huskies. There is no parking at the demonstration site; there is a shuttle from the Denali Visitor Center.
Activities
The park is an outdoor paradise, and offers activities for visitors of all ages and experience levels. National Park Rangers provide guided walks and educational talks on a variety of topics.
- Hiking. There are a handful of trails within the park, but the majority of visitors will eventually find themselves picking out their own path. When hiking off trail it is best if groups spread out and avoid hiking single-file in order to minimize damage to the vegetation from being repeatedly trod upon.
- Backpacking. It is not only possible, but likely that a backpacker can travel for days without seeing another human. Permits are required for all overnight stays and can be acquired at the Backcountry Information Center, adjacent to the Wilderness Access Center (mile 0.6). Strict limits are placed on how many people may camp in any park unit at a given time, so permits for popular areas and units cannot be reserved in advance, therefore it is good to keep in mind several possible areas to explore.
- Whitewater rafting. Whitewater rafting is available on the near-freezing waters of the Nenana River, which parallels the Parks Highway. Two different two-hour trips are available, or they can be combined into one four-hour trip.
- Photography. Just about every famous nature photographer will at some point make a visit to Denali for its tremendous landscapes and abundance of wildlife. Amateurs will appreciate the opportunity as well.
- Sport Fishing. The fishing is not great here due to the extreme cold temperatures. Lake trout can be found in Wonder Lake as well as arctic grayling in some of the mountain streams. No license is needed within the original national park lands. A license is required in the 1980 park land additions and in the Denali Preserve.
- Camping. For those not quite ready for the backcountry experience, the park offers several campgrounds. Be aware that reservations are highly recommended during the summer months as campgrounds fill quickly.
- Riley Creek Campground (Year-round). Located near the park entrance, this campground offers 150 sites suitable for camping and RVs.
- Savage River Campground (Summer only). Located 13 miles from the park entrance near Savage River, this campground offers 33 sites suitable for camping and RVs.
- Sanctuary River Campground (Summer only). Located 23 miles from the park entrance, this campground offers 7 tent-only sites.
- Teklanika River Campground (Summer only). Located 29 miles from the park entrance, this campground offers 53 sites suitable for RVs.
- Wonder Lake Campground (Summer only). Located 85 miles from the park entrance, this campground offers 28 tent-only sites.
- Igloo Creek Campground. This campground is temporarily close to protect local wolf packs. It might reopen in 2008.
Vehicle access
The park is serviced by a 91-mile road from the Parks Highway to the mining camp of Kantishna. Only a small fraction of the road is paved because permafrost and the freeze-thaw cycle create an enormous cost for maintaining the road. Private vehicles are only allowed on the road in early spring and late fall. During the summer months, visitors must access the interior of the park through shuttle buses operated by concession.
Several fully narrated tours of the park are available, the most popular of which is the Tundra Wilderness Tour. The tours travel from the initial boreal forests through tundra to the Toklat River or Kantishna. A clear view of the mountain is only possible about 20% of the time during the summer, although it is visible more often during the winter. Several portions of the road run alongside sheer cliffs that drop hundreds of feet at the edges, and the extreme conditions prevent construction of guardrails. As a result of the danger involved, and because most of the gravel road is only one lane wide, drivers are trained extensively in procedures for navigating the sharp mountain curves, and yielding the right-of-way to opposing buses and park vehicles.
Tours are more expensive than the shuttles, but recommended for groups interested in learning as much about the culture and history of the area as possible. The shuttle buses are a better option for budget travelers, people wishing to day-hike or backpack, and groups interested in seeing as much of the park as possible (as shuttles all travel as far, or in many cases farther, than the tours).
Mount McKinley
Mount McKinley or Denali is the highest mountain peak in North America, at a height of approximately 20,320 feet. It is the centerpiece of Denali National Park. The mountain was also known as Bolshaya Gora (Большая Гора), meaning Big Mountain, in Russian.
Mount McKinley is located in the central portion of the Alaska Range, which spans much of south central Alaska. It is approximately 130 miles north-northwest of Anchorage and 155 miles southwest of Fairbanks. The summit is approximately 35 miles from the nearest major road, the George Parks Highway.
Features and layout
Mount McKinley has a larger bulk and rise than Mount Everest. Even though the summit of Everest is about 9,000 feet higher as measured from sea level, its base sits on the Tibetan Plateau at about 17,000 feet, giving it a real vertical rise of little more than 12,000 feet. The base of Mount McKinley is roughly a 2,000-foot plateau, giving it an actual rise of 18,000 feet.
The mountain is also characterized by extremely cold weather, and by an unusually severe risk of altitude illness for climbers, due to not only its high elevation but also its high latitude.
Mount McKinley has two significant summits: the South Summit is the higher one, while the North Summit has an elevation of 19,470 feet and a prominence of approximately 1,320 feet. The North Summit is sometimes counted as a separate peak and is rarely climbed. Five large glaciers flow off the slopes of the mountain. The Peters Glacier lies on the northwest side of the massif, while the Muldrow Glacier falls from its northeast slopes.
Climbing the mountain
In 1910, four locals (Tom Lloyd, Peter Anderson, Billy Taylor, and Charles McGonagall), known as the Sourdough expedition, attempted McKinley, despite a complete lack of climbing experience. They spent approximately three months on the mountain. However, their purported summit day was impressive: carrying a bag of doughnuts, a thermos of cocoa each, and a 14-foot (4.2-m) spruce pole, two of them reached the North Summit, the lower of the two, and erected the pole near the top. According to them, they took a total of 18 hours—a record that has yet to be breached.
The first ascent of the main summit of McKinley came on June 7, 1913, by a party led by Hudson Stuck. The first man to reach the summit was Walter Harper, an Alaska Native. Harry Karstens and Robert Tatum also made the summit. Tatum later commented, "The view from the top of Mount McKinley is like looking out the windows of Heaven!"
They ascended the Muldrow Glacier route pioneered by the earlier expeditions, which is still often climbed today. Stuck confirmed, via binoculars, the presence of a large pole near the North Summit; this report confirmed the Sourdough ascent, and today it is widely believed that the Sourdoughs did succeed on the North Summit. However the pole was never seen before or since, so there is still some doubt.
The vast majority of climbers use the West Buttress Route, pioneered in 1951 by Bradford Washburn, after an extensive aerial photographic analysis of the mountain. Climbers typically take two to four weeks to ascend the mountain.
Other major Alaskan Range peaks
- Mount Foraker (17,400 ft/5,304 m)
- Mount Hunter (14,573 ft/4,442 m)
- Mount Hayes (13,832 ft/4,216 m)
- Mount Silverthrone (13,218 ft/4,029 m)
- Mount Deborah (12,339 ft/3,761 m)
- Mount Huntington (12,240 ft/3,730 m)
- Mount Russell (11,670 ft/3,557 m)
Fossils
Denali is emerging as a site of interesting fossils, including footprints (ichnites) that were credited with being the first evidence of prehistoric wading birds, probing in mudflats for food during the Late Cretaceous Period, when they were first publicly reported in May 2006. A footprint of a carnivorous theropod had previously been reported in the park.
Notes
- ↑ His account of the visit was published posthumously as The Wilderness of Denali, ISBN 1-56833-152-5.
Sources and Further Reading
- Bauer, Erwin A., and Peggy Bauer. 2000. Denali: the wild beauty of Denali National Park. Seattle: Sasquatch Books. ISBN 1570612099 and ISBN 9781570612091
- Catton, Theodore. 1997. Inhabited wilderness Indians, Eskimos, and national parks in Alaska. New American West series. Albuquerque, N.M.: University of New Mexico Press. ISBN 0585187614 and ISBN 9780585187617
- Petersen, David. 1996. Denali National Park and Preserve. A true book. New York: Children's Press. ISBN 051620050X and ISBN 9780516200507
- Hall, Margaret. 2007. Welcome to Denali National Park. Visitor guides. Chanhassen, Minn: Child's World. ISBN 1592966950 and ISBN 9781592966950
- Miller, Debbie S., and Jon Van Zyle. 1997. Disappearing lake: nature's magic in Denali National Park. New York: Walker and Co. ISBN 0802784747 and ISBN 9780802784742
External links
- Denali. National Park Service. Retrieved May 19, 2007.
- Major Attractions: Denali National Park and Preserve. The Milepost. Retrieved May 19, 2007.
- Denali National Park’s Top Rated Backcountry Lodge. Kantishna Roadhouse. Retrieved May 19, 2007.
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